Sunday, July 8, 2007

The longest climb

The adventure began when the G-man called up outta the blue and asked if I wanted to go on a trip. He temptingly dangled lunch at Kandalama Hotel as bait. Its very hard to say no to lunch at Kandalama, even when he mentioned the dreaded word Sigiriya. The sheer mention of the word gives me vertigo.
But anyhoo, chance of a nice trip, meet some new people and take a few pics was interesting, so what the heck, I was in. Details came in slowly. Dambulla and Sigiriya. Great, more climbing.

So, historical background. The rock temple at Dambulla. This from Wiki.
"Dambulla Cave Temple (also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla) is a world heritage site (1991) in Sri Lanka, situated in the central part of the country."
What the site doesn't mention is there is a lotta steps to climb to get there. Why can't these people install walkways or elevators at these sites!? The altitude change leaves you short of breath anyway.

And Sigiriya the famous "Lion Rock"
"Sigiriya is an archeological site in Central Sri Lanka. It contains the ruins of an ancient palace complex, built during the reign of King Kasyapa (477 – 495 AD). It is one of the seven World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka and is one of its most popular tourist destinations."

The G-man promised an early start with a 6:00 am pickup. Sometime after 6:30, he arrived with a van. Popping on over the Mount Lavinia Hotel to pick up Hermy (newly christened courtesy yours truely) we headed out. The point of the trip was to show Hermy sites of historical interest in SL, as she is interested in this kinda thing. (In case u missed it, shes from America, with a complicated ancestry. So America will suffice :) ) Why G-man didn't think of a tour of Mt. Lavinia Hotel is beyond me. Nice old historical place with lots of stories attached.... I'd have conducted the tour personally if it consisted of visiting the restaurants. :) Oh, well, maybe it wasn't old enough.... But I digress...

Sooo, off we went in the van, bouncing around at what musta been 100kmph (can't see the speedo from the back). In the pic from left to right, Buddhika (G-man) (front row), Coomerene (back row)(hope I got the spelling right), G-man's sis (front row) Thusitha and Hermy in the hat.

Stopped for breakfast at some joint outside Kaduwela. No recommendations from me, service sucked and the food was so-so, tho the toilets were good. Setting was decent too, with a nice large garden to view while eating. Saw a Brown-Headed Barbet, but I had left the camera back in the van.

Resuming our epic adventure, we headed off into the horizon, giving Hermy history, geography and political lessons on the way :) After a confused time at Dambulla trying to find our way to the temple, we stopped at the Golden Temple. Immediately, we were beset on all sides by a bunch of fortune tellers who insisted on calling me "manamala mahathya". Honestly, the nerve! They gave Hermy an interestingly generic fortune, tho we really couldn't keep the translation up with the speed of the flow :)


Very much the Golden Temple as you can see. A looong flight of stairs later, we headed into the famed cave temple. Somewhat out of breath too. However, it was nice and cool in the caves. There are all kinds of restrictions on the photography, like no flash, but I got some dim shots. Going to have a try with a tripod and prolonged exposure if I ever go again.



The place is infested with monkeys. Just like I remembered it from a long time ago. Wanna be players those monkeys, kept going up to the girls and trying to climb on them. Easy to satisfy them, just need to give them a flower. Gave the girls a bit of a fright tho!



Got the team to pose in front of the bell tower. I'm taking the photo, just in case someone thinks of asking.


Came down again after having a refreshing thambili (king coconut for the benefit of internationals) on the way down, we got back to the van to more calls of "manamala mahathaya" from the 2nd shift of fortune tellers. Honestly, these people!
Onward to Kandalama Hotel and lunch! 10km according to the sign posts, but it felt quite longer than that. Wish I thought of taking a few more photos at the Hotel, but it was near 2 and we were worried about missing the buffet, so we rushed right through to the restaurant. Standard at Kandalama, A+, definite recommendation for anyone with pockets deep enough.
The Salad
And the main course.

After all that, I was definitely feeling like not climbing and a relaxing soak in the pool and a nice drive back to Colombo was an idea that was very appealing. However, we had a mission, (show Hermy ancient sites) so off we went.

Sigiriya has this effect of looking more and more forbidding the closer we got to it. Introduced to the delightful new abbreviation, GNT (gaanu naana thana, or place where women bathe) we headed across the moat into Sigiriya. Old king Kashyapa definitely liked his GNTs, with the miniature GNT just after the ramparts, the pictures of the women in the GNT on the frescoes, and the GNTs on the summit with a throne were the pervy old king could sit and check out his NGs. According to some quick net research, he is supposed to have had 500. Oh well, kinda isolated spot, what with the center of everything at Anuradhapura and there was no Internet in those days, so the man had to do something with his time while he waited for invasion. Amazingly I survived the climb while all the while needing to pee. I was tempted to find a corner on the summit but it was very windy up there.

The old Perv's GNT. More extensive than it looks from here.
The Forbidding rock face.
The team setting out. We must be nuts!
The stairway leading through the boulders and on into exhaustion.
The team at the famed Lion Paws at the entrance to the citadel on the summit.

That is definitely my last trip to the summit. if I ever go again, I'm going to explore the lower palace structures and halls. I'm amazed I made it back with my knees intact. Curses on the idiot architects that designed that place! They could have at least had some wider stairs. Feel like a mountain goat on those things. Not the place for a person with feet as big as mine. Also, the wind god must have been offended by Buddhika's hat (which I was wearing) coz he was trying his best to rip it off my head. No jokes, the wind was blowing so hard it pushed me back a couple of times. Batteries ran out on the camera at the Paws, so no more pics :(

It was a relief to come down again, and an even bigger relief to empty the bladder. The van had come to the tourists car park, which was at the base of the rock, sparing us the need to walk further, thanks to Hermy's tourist pass. One souvenir book later, we were on our way home. Stops at Jinadasa's for Aluwa, and Ambepussa Rest House for dinner and we were home sometime just after midnight. Word on the Rest House, its a nice place and the toilets are excellent, but the dinner menu isn't great. Get the feeling they are catering more towards the people who want to stop for a drink and chat than people who want dinner. That seems to have been outsourced to the restaurant by the main road, which I was informed had hoppers. My bad, that.

2 comments:

tharendra said...

You've covered just about everything in the trip Preveen :) Well done !

You did forget to mention the two loony-tunes that came and shouted at me for wearing socks and for taking photos of people inside the temple. (The rules say not to take photos that are disrespectful eg. posing beside statues with arms around them etc.)

Anyway, More pics of us and of ol' boy Rodriguez (nearly out of breath after reaching the top) found at this link.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/tharendra/

Coomerene said...

Hey... nice one Preveen. When do we climb the next mountain/rock? :)